The Flawless Face: The Basic Face

Last weekend, I hosted a Make-Up Class at J'adore Fason Salon in Cary NC called The Basic Face. This class taught women the 4 Steps to Completing a Face, using Motives Cosmetics.

I had never taught a class before, just usually worked one on one with clients giving them advice and help with their makeup application. So this was a new thing for me and I was excited to take on the challenge!
I am pleased to say that the class was a success! We had about 15 guests show up, and a lot of people were interested in booking an appointment, and said they learned a lot of information!

I decided that since you couldn't make it, I would share with you some of the notes I handed out during the class.
Enjoy!

THE BASIC FACE

4 Steps to Completing a Face

Step 1: Prep, Prime and Base

Prep: Prepping the skin prior to makeup application isn’t just nice to do, it’s a requirement. Your makeup can only look as good as the skin underneath! Be sure to wash your face twice daily. Washing your face includes 4 steps- Cleanse, Tone, Treat, and Moisturize. It is important to remove your makeup every night before going to sleep, and every morning before you reapply your makeup.

Prime: Using a primer is something that most women don’t use when they should be! A primer acts as a barrier between your skin and your foundation, creating a long-lasting natural look. The primer fills in fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, and uneven skin textures. This creates a smooth canvas for makeup to go over. A little goes a long way! Use a foundation brush to apply.

Motives Perfecting Face Primer $19.95

Base: This step is what most women have difficulty understanding. First ask yourself, what look are you trying to achieve? You may be wasting time by using the incorrect application techniques. Too much product can give the face an artificial look. Use a Foundation Brush to use less product, and achieve the best results.

• If you want a more natural look, just use a crème concealer and a light powder. This will give you a “No Makeup” look. Finish with a setting spray. This will freshen your makeup, and feels cool on your face.

Concealer $16.50

Translucent Powder $21.00+

• If you’re looking for more coverage, use a liquid foundation followed by optional concealer (you may not need it. Wait until you put on your liquid foundation then determine if you need additional concealer. Too much can make dark circles and lines more noticeable.), then comes your powder. For additional coverage use a sponge to apply your powder, otherwise you get the best results using a powder brush. You get most of your color/coverage with your liquid foundation. Powder just sets and softens.

o For full coverage without using a liquid foundation, try a full coverage pressed powder. Apply with a sponge.

To apply a Liquid Foundation:

o Start by using a Foundation Brush.

o Squirt a pea size amount of product on your brush.

o Make 5 Dots on your face with the product: Forehead, Nose, Chin and Cheeks.

o Start blending the foundation starting in the center and working your way out.

o If more product is needed, apply as you go.

o Set with a powder or setting spray.

Anti-Aging Makeup $29.50

Liquid Powder Foundation $24.95

Full Coverage Photo Finish Powder $24.50

Step 2: Contour and Color Cheeks

• First, you want to get to know your face. Feel around with your fingertips for the structure and placement of the bones underneath. This will help you determine your ‘Highlights’ and ‘Hollows’, and show you where to put your colors.

• Your foundation is your blank slate. Now you need to add depth, definition and color.

• You use a darker shade (bronzer) in the hollows and lighter shade as your highlight (bones). Blend everything together with a powder brush so you have no definite lines.

Shape and Sculpt Duo $22.00

Bronzer/Blush Duo $22.50

• When using blush, the best trick is still to suck in your cheeks! Apply the color to the apple of your cheeks, and follow the line your mouth creates sweeping up to your temples. A little color goes a long way! Blush is meant to give you a natural looking flush, so choose a color that will compliment your skins undertones.

• You can’t get around it here…you gotta use a blush brush! Applying blush with a cotton ball or sponge will transfer too much product to one spot, and will not blend easily. Using a Blush Brush gives you the best result.

Pressed Blush $14

Blush Brush $14.95

*Dry Skin? Try using a sheer hydrating foundation (Ageless Renewal $29.50) and crème blush ($18.95). Let dry, then set with 10 Years Younger Spray ($29.95).

Step 3: Eyes

Eye Shadow

When first starting, choose 3 neutral colors (tans, browns, greys, pinks) that will compliment your skin tone and eye color. Then prep your eyelid with a base. The base helps the pigment in the shadow adhere better which creates a bolder color that lasts longer, and prevents from creasing.

• Shade 1 :Your 2nd to lightest color

Apply on the base of the lid

Best results when using a Crème Shadow underneath

• Shade 2: Your darkest color

Apply on the crease above your lid, use a “C” shape motion and blend inwards

Blend 2 shades together with a blending brush to soften

• Shade 3: Your lightest color

Apply lightest color on your brow bone to highlight

Blend until desired look is achieved

Eye Base $14.00

Pressed Eye Shadow $12.50

Eye Liner

When first starting out, it’s easiest to use a Kohl Eyeliner. This is a pencil, so it’s perfect for if you want to rim your water line, or to create a soft, natural look. Or, if your eyes water, you can use a twist up waterproof pencil for the same look.

Kohl Liner $14.75

Waterproof Pencil $15.00

• Use the chart above to help you to apply your eyeliner. Most women mess up by drawing one bold line. This line can come out too thick, uneven and sloppy. By using short strokes, you create a more natural line and can correct any mistakes by smudging, or applying a dark shadow on top.

• Stopping ¾ of the way through helps you to get a more natural look, and opens up the eye. For a more dramatic look, carry the line to the center.

• Practice makes perfect!

Liquid eyeliners, gel eyeliners and pen eyeliners are excellent for getting a cat eye, wing tip or edgy looks.

Mascara

• To apply mascara, first use a primer. This is goes on white and dries clear, so wait for it to dry before continuing. This puts a seal around your natural lashes for mascara to go over and give you the appearance of fuller, longer lashes.

• Next, apply your mascara from the base of your lash line, and wiggle the wand all the way to the tops of your lashes. Repeat this process until desired look is achieved.

• The more coats you apply, the more dramatic your result.

Brows

• Your eyebrows frame your eye shape, so they are very important! Most women skip this step, but it makes such an improvement and can take years off your look! You can lift the eye just by some simple brow maintenance.

Using a pencil, place it first on the side of your nose. This (point A) will tell you where your eyebrow needs to start. Then move the pencil until it lands in the middle of your pupil. This (point B) is where your eyebrow should arch. Lastly, move the pencil to the outer corner of your eye. This (point C) will show you where your eyebrow needs to end.

• Use an eyebrow brush to shape the brow. Brush up to the arch, then down.

• Use an eyebrow pencil or powder to fill in eyebrows and make them look fuller and shaped.

• Don’t be heavy handed! Use light strokes to fill in holes, define shape, and extend the tail.

Eyebrow Pencil $14.00

Eyebrow Kit $29.95

Step 4: Lips

• Lips that are in good condition can wear almost any shade of lip color, as long as you follow undertones complimentary to your skin tone.

• Keep lips healthy by exfoliating with lip pumice, and moisturizing with lip treatment.

First thing you want to put on is your lip liner. I guarantee most of you do not wear a lip liner when you should be.

The benefits of using Lip Liner:

o Makes your lipstick last longer.

o Makes lip color more vibrant.

o Helps to prevent your lipstick from bleeding.

o Can change shape of your lips, making them appear fuller or thinner.

o Gives shape to lips if only wearing a gloss.

o Same concept as wearing a base under your eye shadow, colors appear more vibrant and last hours longer!

• When applying lip liner, use the Dot-Dot-Dash technique. This is where you place dots and dashes with you lip liner on your lips, and then connect the dots to complete the liner. This makes it easier to follow your natural lip shape, and to achieve the look you desire.

*For Fuller lips, make short, rounded strokes. For thinner lips, make straight lines.

• Apply your lipstick / lip-gloss after your lip liner using a Lip Brush. Blot with a tissue to remove excess product.